Posted by Erica Williams on Tue, Aug 03, 2010 @ 11:05 AM
Gasp! I didn't know such a plant existed. I'm new to this whole "green thumb" thing, anyway. In fact, my thumb isn't even green, it’s sort of a pale shade of yellow right now. I'm improving and that's what all that matters right?
While surfing the net, I came across this article, a list, of plants that you can't kill. Surely there must be some fine print written at the bottom. I mean, that’s a pretty bold statement. I CAN’T kill them? The author clearly hasn’t met me yet. I’m almost tempted to prove them wrong. But I won’t.
These plants can survive in the worst conditions. Forgot to water them for a few days? No problem. Little to no sunlight? It's ok. They'll survive. Why can't all plants be this resilient? Sure would've saved me a lot of potting soil. LOL
I thought the only plants you really couldn't kill were cacti. I have been proven wrong and I am not surprised-at all. For those other " pale yellow" thumbs out there, here's a list of plants that you can’t kill.
- Golden Pothos Vine
- Spider plants
- Snake plants and mother in laws tongue (funny name)
- Dracaena species
- Succulents and Cacti
- Bromeliads
- Lucky Bamboo
For a more in depth discussion of the plants..check this out.
Posted by Sean Kennedy on Wed, Feb 03, 2010 @ 10:18 AM
When dealing with questions like this one, I prefer to defer answers to the agronomical and horticultural experts. I searched and searched and went Ivy League this time and found some great, basic facts for nearly every mulching situation. Whether you need mulch to replenish nutrients in the soil, help in a vegetable garden or just looking to spruce up your curb appeal read what the Department of Horticulture at Cornell has to say. I feel this is one of the most comprehensive and informative pieces I have come across while learning about mulch and its various functions. If you have found other educational sources you would like to share, please link in your comments. I hope this is as useful to you as is to us at EnviroColor®.
Posted by Sean Kennedy on Mon, Jan 04, 2010 @ 02:54 PM
Back in 1978 a new term was coined in Colorado that has a growing impact on the landscape business. As water conservation becomes more prevalent all over the world, EnviroColor® encourages the use of this landscape technique to keep "water wise"
Xeros from the Greek, meaning dry.
Xeriscape landscaping is a growing trend among individuals, organizations and corporations who want to do their part is preserving our environment. Through the use of low water consuming plants and gardening practices that support water conservation, we can extend the life of our precious clean water supplies.
Many pursue xeriscaping primarily as a means to lower their own water consumption. This practice has a "bigger picture" trickle down effect. Even if you are not thinking as much about "going green" or helping the environment, you inevitably contribute to building a sustainable future.
Xeriscape landscaping incorporates seven basic principles which lead to saving water:
- Planning and design
- Soil analysis
- Practical turf areas
- Appropriate plant selection
- Efficient irrigation
- Use of mulches
- Appropriate maintenance
By incorporating these seven principles, you can help preserve our most precious natural resource-water.
Mulching Conserves Moisture
Mulch is a layer of nonliving material covering the soil surface around plants. Mulches can be organic materials such as pine bark, pine needles, compost and wood chips; or inorganic materials, such as lava rock, limestone or permeable plastic, not sheet plastic.
Use mulch wherever possible. Good mulch conserves water by significantly reducing moisture evaporation from the soil. Mulch also reduces weed populations, prevents soil compaction and keeps soil temperatures more moderate.
If it is color you desire in your xeriscape, remember EnviroColor® Georgia Pine, Sierra Red, Cocoa Brown and Black Forest to enhance the color and extend the life of your mulch.
Posted by Sean Kennedy on Wed, Nov 18, 2009 @ 10:26 AM
Fall is the time everyone recommends mulching your garden beds. Garden calendars, magazine articles, websites, and blogs (like this one) all tout the benefits of mulching and the advantages of doing it in the fall.
Mulching in fall -
- adds organic matter to the soil to lighten and enrich it
- prevents erosion by winter rains
- helps keep roots from freezing
- warms soil for earlier spring planting
- prevents weed seedlings from getting started
So, you're sold. Mulching is good. But, what do you use - exactly? There are quite a number of bags in the nursery or garden center to choose from.
A mulch can be any type of organic material - bark dust, bark nuggets, shredded bark, compost, compost/bark blends, pine needles, fallen leaves, straw, and so on. There isn't really one "right" choice.
Fallen leaves are best chopped up before being used either in the garden or in the compost pile. Straw may not break down fully over the winter season, but it is a great garden cover and can be tilled into the soil come spring.
If you desire color for your landscaped beds EnviroColor is an inexpensive and safe way to top spray the color you desire. We know color is a choice or opinion and is not for every gardener. We are proud that our product meets the Mulch and Soil Council (MSC) Colorants Sub-Committee meet the requirements.
EnviroColor recently went the so called "six-pack" test for toxicology. The test is commonly used to check the toxicity of things like pesticides and insecticides and is used to ensure that products are labeled properly to guide consumers use of potentially toxic products. Six test are performed, checking the material on:
- Acute oral toxicity
- Acute dermal toxicity
- Acute inhalation toxicity
- Eye irritation
- Dermal irritation
- Skin irritation
Depending on the toxicity discovered in each test, different labeling must be on the packages containing the product.
Posted by Sean Kennedy on Thu, Oct 22, 2009 @ 12:32 PM
A while back I posted an article about the dreaded "Mulch Volcano" and how deep mulch can lead to excess moisture in the root zone, which can stress the plant and cause root rot. Plus piling mulch high against the trunk or stems of plants can stress stem tissues and may lead to insect and disease problems or that mulch piled high against the trunks of young trees may create a habitat for rodents that chew the bark and can girdle the trees.
Let me now recommend what we at EnviroColor consider proper mulching techniques.
- Inspect plants and soil in the area to be mulched. Determine whether drainage is adequate. Avoid placing mulch in drainage ways, because it may wash away or act as a dam, reducing water flow. Determine whether there are plants that may be affected by the choice of mulch. Most commonly available mulches work well in most landscapes.
- If mulch is already present, check the depth. Do not add mulch if there is a sufficient layer in place. Rake the old mulch to break up any matted layers to refresh the appearance (Top spray with EnviroColor® to refresh color if desired).
- If mulch is pile high against the stems of tree trunks, pull it back several inches so that the base of the trunk and the root crown are exposed.
- Organic mulches usually are preferred to inorganic materials due to their soil-enhancing properties. If organic mulch is used, it should be well aerated and, preferably, composted. Avoid sour smelling mulches.
- Composted wood chips can make good mulch, especially when they contain a blend of leaves, bark and wood. Fresh wood chips can also be used around established trees and shrubs. Avoid using non-composted wood chips that have been piled deeply without exposure to oxygen.
- For well-drained sites, apply a 2 - 4 inch layer of mulch. If there are drainage problems, a thinner layer should be used. Avoid placing mulch against the tree trunks. Place mulch out to the tree's drip line or beyond.
Remember: If the tree had a say in the matter, it's entire root system (which usually extends well beyond the drip line) would be mulched.
