Posted by Sean Kennedy on Wed, Dec 23, 2009 @ 01:21 PM
For Christians all over the world this is a special time of the year as they are celebrating the birth of their Savior. We here at EnviroColor® wanted to wish everyone a very Merry Christmas and the obligatory Happy New Year too!
We are excited about what the new year has in store for our brand and for all the individuals who are searching for the perfect solutions to their ground cover needs. As was mentioned last week we are perfecting our 4EverGreen grass colorant. This new product is the perfect item for the lawn fanatic who desires the "perfect" looking yard. As always we are striving to provide the end user the best top spray solutions for mulch, pine straw and now grass.
Sales pitch is over, seriously, we want our subscribers, readers and patrons to have a splendid holiday season. May you cherish the moments made this Christmas.
Merry Christmas from EnviroColor®.
Peace to all!
Posted by Sean Kennedy on Fri, Dec 18, 2009 @ 09:54 AM
New businesses are popping up all over the American southwest as drought conditions and foreclosures continue to hammer the region. This new business is coloring, painting or dying brown grass green. Here in the southeast as temperatures drop our bermuda lawns go dormant and turn brown. Some of choose to over seed with a winter rye. This poses a couple of issues. First, the amount of water needed to ensure germination is substantial and even though the "drought is over in Georgia" I personally feel that each individual needs to be very conscious of their water usage. Secondly, the introduction of a new grass presents a list of problems unto itself. I won't bog down this article with a huge list of disease issues and whatnot, just know that the transition period back to bermuda can be tumultuous. Golf courses, natural grass turf stadiums and cemetaries have been using the "painting" method for a little more than a decade saving on water costs and presenting a great aesthetic to their patrons. This unique product and process is something that we at EnviroColor® have studied this product and process for nearly a year and are ready to help those individuals who desire a green lawn in the dormant season. We produce, supply and apply only the best environmentally friendly top spray colorants for pine straw and mulch, and now for grass too!
Posted by Sean Kennedy on Wed, Dec 09, 2009 @ 12:09 PM
I am spending so much time in the yard on the weekends preparing all my plants for winter I fugured I needed to share my finds with the rest of you. I have collected a great article from author Terry Gray and just anded a quip or two concerning ways to enhance and enrich the natural color of the suggested type of mulch. Enjoy and get your yard ready for the winter season!
It is considered the fact Pine Straw Mulch is a sustainable, renewable resource, it's so simple and lightweight to work with pine needle and looks very attractive especially with a top spray of EnviroColor®. Young seedlings can grow through pine needle, water can filter down through it, the ground can breathe and yet pine straw still holds in moisture. It lasts longer than other similar materials and pine needle won't shift off with the first steady rain.
In fall mulching with pine straw has an significant function since temperatures in the late fall to winter months can change radically. The ground heaves as it freezes and thaws, forcing the root systems of many fragile plants up from the soil and exposing them to the elements. Nearly all plants are much healthier when they have a bed of pine needle mulch spread over their roots.
When mulching with pine straw you should wait until the ground is frozen or just about frozen before you add the pine needle. Any sooner cover will boost mold and mildew to form on the surface. Generally, a 2- to 3-inch bed of pine needle mulch situated over the root zone of a plant will provide a noticeable difference in the plant's health. Established plants will show less stress and better growth. Just be sure to pull pine straw mulch an inch or two aside from the stems of shrubs or from the trunks of trees. If pine needle mulch is placed up against trunks or stems, it can contain too much water and encourage decay on the bark.
Many people make the error of using less reliable fall mulch such as hay in their garden. Hay is not a good alternative to pine straw since hay often carries seeds that will sooner or later sprout and cause weed problems in your garden in the spring. Pine straw comes from several different species of pine trees that drop their pine needles by nature throughout the year. Since it is produced naturally, pine straw sometimes is referred to as the "guilt-free" mulch. Each species' of pine tree will have its own unique characteristics, such as pine needle length, wax content and pine needle flexibility. The Loblolly species of pine straw, for instance, has a pine needle length ranging from about six to nine inches, making it simple to use and shape. Also, the needle sizing is optimal for allowing the soil to breathe well while allowing first-class water infiltration.
Ideally, garden mulch for the winter is added in the fall to protect against sudden and extreme temperature dips before plants have had a chance to fully harden. A few inches of pine straw mulch can provide a cushion of as much as 10 degrees above ambient air temperatures which is just enough to keep roots growing. And certainly, a top layer of pine needle mulch offers decorative appeal and for more enriched natural pine needle color, use EnviroColor®, to make the garden looked cared for at a time when the yard can look a little underwhelming.
Posted by Sean Kennedy on Wed, Dec 02, 2009 @ 10:16 AM
A couple of weeks ago I forwarded some advice on fall mulching, now with the occurance of the first major frost in the Metro Atlanta area I figured I had better find out what to do for my roses come cold weather. This is the best advice I found.......
OLATHE, Kan. - Many gardeners find the concept hard to accept: You shouldn't protect most perennial plants from each year's late-season decline into freezing weather.
"With few exceptions, plants need to go through the transition on their own, so they enter winter dormancy on time. You only apply winter mulch after that, because its sole purpose is to hold in the soil's cold. That way, it can buffer any air temperature changes that come later on, during winter's freeze-thaw cycles," said Dennis Patton, horticulturist with Kansas State University Research and Extension.
In general, plants become fully dormant after two to three hard freezes in the mid to low twenties, he said.
Winter mulch protection is particularly important for any limited- or shallow-rooted plants, Patton said. In Kansas, they include such "semi-hardy" plants as mums and strawberries, as well as all trees, shrubs, perennials and bulbs that have been in the landscape for less than a year.
Winter mulch is vital to the survival of grafted roses, too, he added, which typically mean all hybrid teas.
"Winter's repeated pattern of freezing and thawing kills more plants in the Midwest than sub-zero temperatures do," Patton warned. "In unmulched landscapes, the shifts can heave some plants from the ground, exposing roots to air. Plus, they can expose plant grafts and crowns - the places where stems and roots meet -- to hard, killing freezes."
In late winter or early spring, the mulch's role can gain even more importance, he said. The insulating cover can hold in soil's cold so that unseasonably warm weather doesn't cue plants to break dormancy.
"If these periods are long enough for unmulched perennials to lose some winter hardiness, the plants are open for major, even fatal damage when the weather turns cold again," Patton said.
Because winter mulch also can moderate soil moisture loss, however, it can benefit any landscape plant. Freeze-thaw cycles tend to dry out the soil, creating plant stress, the horticulturist said. Mulching also protects the soil from the compaction and erosion that winter rains and snowmelt can cause.
For perennial gardens, Patton recommends a 2- to 3-inch-deep layer of a light, airy mulch material, such as straw, shredded leaves or pine needles. (One bail of straw can cover about 100 square feet 3 inches deep.) Deeper layers can suffocate plants over winter.
Plants with woody stems or trunks will need an inch or two of "air space" between mulch and wood - "as if their trunk is inside the hole of a mulch doughnut," he said. "As they decompose, mulch ‘volcanoes' that touch the main stem can cause the same damage as placing a woody plant too deep in the ground."
Grafted roses are the exception to the doughnut rule, Patton warned. The best protection for their crown and graft is a mound of garden soil, gathered from elsewhere in the landscape. The soil cone should be about 6 inches deep. A top layer of straw or leaves will help prevent erosion.
"You should periodically inspect roses and other low-branching shrubs until spring growth begins and you remove winter's mulch," he said. "You may have to institute other protective measures if varmints are using the mulch as cover or climbing on top of snow-covered mulch to gnaw on branches."
Thanks to Kansas State and Dennis Patton. Happy Holidays everyone and I hope your roses appreciate the extra care. Looking forward to your comments.